Category: Niigata Prefecture

Actually, there is no mine named Sado Gold Mine on Sado Island.

In Sado Island, Niigata Prefecture, there was a mine that was the largest in Japan and was worldly famous. This time, I’m introducing “Sado Gold Mine” which is known as “island of gold”.Japan used to be called “Japan, the country of gold”. The reason was there were numbers of mines of gold and silver all over Japan. Especially “Sado Gold Mine” was different in scale with 400kg of gold and 40t silver per year at its best. These gold and silver supported the finance of Tokugawa Edo government. Its history dates back a long time ago and after it started in Edo period, it continued mining until 1974 for 388 years. The total length of tunnel reaches 400km. Today, you can visit about 300m of them. Recently, the movement to the World Cultural Heritage registration is active.

Sado Gold Mine and nearby attractions

There are 55 mines (gold and silver mines) on Sado Island, as far as has been confirmed. Among them, the three mines that have been applied for registration as a World Heritage site “the gold mines of Sado Island” are Nishimikawa Placer Gold Mine, Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine, and Tsurushi Silver Mine. In fact, there is no mine named ” Sado Gold Mine” on Sado Island. The “Sado Gold Mine” is the name of a tourist facility (Historic Site: The Sado Gold Mine) that recreates the mining activities of the Edo period using the remains of the Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine tunnel. As it became widely recognized by tourists, the Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine came to be commonly known as the ” Sado Gold Mine”.

Historic Site: The Sado Gold Mine

At “Historic Site: The Sado Gold Mine” visitors can see the remains of a tunnel (“Sodayu-ko”) that was dug by hand in the early Edo period (17th century) and the remains of a tunnel (“Doyu-ko”) that was excavated after the Meiji period (mid-19th century). At the hand-dug tunnel site from the Edo period (17th century), about 70 dolls are displayed, recreating the scene of mining.

Symbol of Sado Gold Mine Doyu no Warito

This is the Doyu no Warito, a famous symbol of the Sado Gold Mine. The V-shaped portion is the remains of the Roto-bori* that was manually dug in half using chisels and hammers during the Edo period. It is about 30 meters wide and 74 meters deep. The lower part of the Wari-to was dug by the Kodo-bori*, and was redeveloped on a large scale after the Meiji period with the introduction of Western technology. The Doyu no Warito can be viewed from up close as well as from a distance. *The Roto-bori is a mining method that digs out veins of ore from the surface of the earth. *The Kodo-bori is a mining method in which tunnels are dug to reach underground veins of ore.

Workers in the Sado Gold Mine were divided into two groups: technicians and non-technicians, and the technicians were called “carpenters”. There were “Kanahori carpenters” who dug ores with chisels and hammers, “Yamadome carpenters” who set up pillars to prevent falling down, and “Horiko” who carried ores dug by Kanahori carpenters out of the tunnel, and “Mizukae Ninsoku” who drained the inside of the tunnel. The Kanahori carpenters were paid well as technicians, and they were given preferential treatment. They worked in four-hour shifts and had time to eat, rest, and even could lie down on mats (Mushiro).

Hard labor at the Sado Gold Mine, Mizukae Ninsoku.

Since the Sado Gold Mine is excavated deeper than sea level, the deeper one digs, the more groundwater rises up, making mining impossible if drainage work is not carried out properly. As gold-digging is said to be a “battle against water,” it was important to drain water from the tunnels. A pump called a “Suishorin” was created for this purpose. When the handle is turned around and around, the spiral blades inside the long tube rotate to pump water. A number of Suishorin were connected to pump water up from deep in the tunnels and out. The people who did this work were called “Mizukae Ninsoku”. At first, Mizukae Ninsoku were recruited from all over Japan at high wages, but as more tunnels were excavated and more workers were needed, the labor shortage became serious, and people called “Mushuku-nin” from Edo, Osaka, and Nagasaki were sent to Sado Island to do the drainage work. The work of the Mizukae Ninsoku was hard work, requiring shifts of one day and one night. From 1778, when the first “Mushuku-nin” were brought to Sado Gold Mine, until 1861, around the end of the Edo period, 1876 people, Mushuku-nin, were forced to work at Sado Gold Mine.

The Mushuku-nin are those who became homeless due to economic hardship in the Edo period, and their names were removed from the family register, mainly poor farmers who could no longer pay tribute. They were not criminals, but in the mid-Edo period (18th century), when political unrest such as famine caused a large influx of homeless people to the Edo area, they were captured by the Edo shogunate as part of its security measures and forced to work at the Sado Gold Mine (Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine). They were allowed to return home after 10 years of work as “Mizukae Ninsoku”, but it is said that only about 10% of those who worked for 10 years were able to leave Sado Island alive.

Shinto ritual performance “Yawaragi”

It’s a Shinto ritual performing art in Sado Gold Mine called “Yawaragi”. “Yawaragi” took place when large gold mine was found wishing to “soften the heart of the God of the mountain so that the bedrock become softer”. Since gold mine looks like centipede, there is centipede drawn on the costume of Shinto priest. Also, since showing face to the God is disrespectful, he is blindfolded. Currently, you can actually see in Mine Festival in July every year.

The site of “Kitazawa Flotation Plant”

The site of “Kitazawa Flotation Plant” is situated in the area called Kitazawa area facilities in Sado Gold Mine where buildings contributed to modernization of Sado Gold Mine from Meiji to early Showa period are standing. It’s very popular recently from visitors with its world view like “Castle in the Sky”. It was the first in the world to put floating method in practical use and processed 50,000 t of mineral every month being called “the best in Asia”. It will be lighten up in summer nights so you can enjoy mystical atmosphere. In 2015, it was selected as a cultural landscape of the mines and mining town of Sado Aikawa.

From “Kitazawa Flotation Plant”, on the other side of the small river, there stands a huge “thickener” looking like ancient Rome ruins. It was a facility to separate mineral and water from slime with low gold/silver content rate. Though currently there is only this one, there existed various thickeners of various sizes. In 2015, it was selected as a cultural landscape of the mines and mining town of Sado Aikawa.

Odate Tateko Shaft, a symbol of the modernization of Sado Gold Mine

This is the oldest shaft in Japan digging tunnel vertically using European technology. It’s called “Odate Tateko”. This shaft is said to be the “symbol of modernization of Sado Gold Mine” and worked from Meiji to Heisei period. The cross-section is rectangular form of about 5.7m×3.3ｍ and the final depth reaches to 352m which is more than Tokyo tower (333m).

The bell tower that told the time in Aikawa, the town of the Sado Gold Mine

In early Edo period, the time was announced with drums in Sado magistrate’s office but in mid-Edo period, Sado magistrate ordered to make time bell with coppers mined in Sado and this bell played the role of clock up to Meiji period. Time bell customs disappeared in Taisho period but in early 2000, with the restoration of the bell tower, the time bell revived. In 2015, it was selected as a cultural landscape of the mines and mining town of Sado Aikawa.

Sado magistrate’s office

Sado Gold Mine was found just after the start of Edo period and the Sado Island was controlled directly by Edo government and they placed magistrate’s office in Aikawa in Sado Silver Mountain. In Sado magistrate’s office, there was not only administrative office but also factory to refine gold/silver and the residence of magistrate. Sado magistrate’s office experienced 5 fires and reconstructions in Edo period. It was used as administrative institution and school since Meiji but it was burned down completely by the fire after the war. Later, with ruins investigation, it was reconstructed based on the drawing of Sado magistrate’s office in early 2000s.

Aikawa Local Museum (Former Imperial Household Agency, Former Imperial Household Ministry, the Bureau of Imperial Property Sado branch)

Since Meiji period, Sado Gold Mine became the possession of the imperial family so ex Imperial Household Ministry put mine office as the Bureau of Imperial Property Sado branch. There is a roof tile with the Imperial chrysanthemum crest. Currently, it’s uses as “Aikawa local museum” exhibiting various materials related to Sado oval and Sado Gold Mine.

Oma Port

Oma port was constructed during Meiji period in order to bring materials used in Sado Gold Mine and to take out minerals. There was no cement technology and we can still see the stone seawall more than 120 years old. Sunset from Oma port is very beautiful. In 2015, it was selected as a cultural landscape of the mines and mining town of Sado Aikawa.

What is the reason why did it take so long for the Sado Gold Mine to be registered as a World Heritage Site?

There was a discussion in the Niigata Prefectural Assembly regarding the reasons why Sado Gold Mine has not been easily registered as a World Heritage site (The reasons why Sado Gold Mine was not easily registered). The argument was that the moving doll in the tunnel of the Sado Gold Mine (Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine), with the line “I wish I could see my familiar woman, too,” was considered degrading and therefore could not be registered as a World Heritage site. After all, the moving doll was never removed because it was an expression of the harsh labor conditions of the mineworkers and their feelings, but it seems to be true that some islanders on Sado Island were talking about the moving doll on the level of urban legend, saying that it was cursed or haunted.

Incidentally, there is a rule in the World Heritage registration process that “a follow-up registration of a project similar to a previously registered property in the same country is not allowed”. In Japan, Iwami Silver Mine in Shimane Prefecture is registered as a World Heritage site, so in 2011, Sado Gold Mine was registered on the “Tentative List of World Heritage Candidate Sites,” but the Japanese government was very cautious in recommending Sado Gold Mine. The reason for this was that in the World Heritage registration process, the “Outstanding Universal Value” (i.e., uniqueness) of the Sado Gold Mine had to be proven through comparative verification with overseas mining heritage sites. Sado City and Niigata Prefecture spent more than 10 years continuously examining the “Outstanding Universal Value” components of the Sado Gold Mine. From the 16th to the 19th century, when mechanization was progressing among the world’s mines, the Sado Gold Mine continued to produce gold through a traditional handicraft production system (a series of processes from mining to ore dressing, smelting and refining, and production of koban), which is rare in the world. Therefore, in 2021, Sado City and Niigata Prefecture submitted a “Draft World Heritage Nomination Document” to the Agency for Cultural Affairs.

Was there forced labor at the Sado Gold Mine?

When the Japanese government suggested Sado Gold Mine as a candidate site for World Heritage, the South Korean government opposed the recommendation, saying that there was forced labor of Koreans at Sado Gold Mine during the war. However, the Japanese government countered as follows. – The time period for which Sado Gold Mine is seeking World Heritage registration is the Edo period from the late 16th century to the mid-19th century, not the 20th century when Japan annexed the Korean Peninsula (1910-1945). – No persons from the Korean Peninsula were forced to work (Kyosei-Rodo)* at the Sado Gold Mine during the war (1939-1945). According to “Sado Mine History” (published in 1950), a compilation of documents and records of the Sado Gold Mine (Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine), during the war, workers at the Sado Gold Mine (Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine) were secured through “recruitment” and both people from the Korean peninsula and domestic workers were paid the same wage according to their occupational category. Dekasegi* workers were provided with company housing or dormitories for free, and some people from the Korean Peninsula moved to Sado Island with their families. There were also specialized teachers for children (school children) from the Korean Peninsula. A medical clinic was also set up and life insurance was provided at the full cost of the company (Mitsubishi Mining) in case of emergencies. The contract was for two or three years. Some extended their contracts, and some returned to the Korean Peninsula when their contracts ended. However, for about 7 or 8 months near the end of the war, the Sado Gold Mine (Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine) was designated as a controlled factory by the Ministry of Munitions, so there is a history of both domestic workers and people from the Korean Peninsula being drafted as well. The Japanese government has stated that those who were mobilized for wartime labor in the form of requisition*, etc., do not fall under the category of “forced labor” as defined in the “Forced Labor Convention,” which was ratified in 1932. The International Labor Organization (ILO) excludes wartime requisition from “forced labor”. Incidentally, in his book “The Annexation of Korea” (published in 2004), Choe Ki-ho, a visiting professor at Kaya University, who had applied for conscription at a Japanese company (Mitsubishi Mining) during the war, revealed that conscription, which provided housing and high compensation, was very popular among people from the Korean Peninsula, and 7,000 people flooded in to fill the 1,000 positions for miners.   When South Korea became a member of the World Heritage Committee in 2024 (for a term of 4 years), it was initially difficult for the Sado Gold Mmine to be listed as a World Heritage site. However, to reflect the position of the South Korean government, the Japanese government agreed with the South Korean government that the history of mine work by people from the Korean Peninsula would be displayed at the local facilities, although the expression “Kyosei-Rodo (forced labor) ” would not be used. Accordingly, in July 2024, the World Heritage Committee decided to inscribe the Sado Gold Mine on the World Heritage List as one of the constituent assets of “the Gold Mine of Sado Island.”

*Kyosei-Rodo means that people are brought to work regardless of their own will.

*Dekasegi means that people living in low-income areas or areas with few jobs temporarily live and work in areas with higher incomes and more jobs.

*Requisition is when a nation mobilizes its citizens to do certain jobs during times of emergency, such as war. Incidentally, “requisition as a soldier” is not called “requisition” but “conscription.”

Access to Sado Gold Mine

From Tokyo

It takes about 2 hours from JR Tokyo Station to JR Niigata Station by Joetsu Shinkansen. It takes about 15 minutes by local bus from JR Niigata Station to Niigata Port.

From Osaka

It takes about 1 hour from Itami Airport to Niigata Airport. It takes about 25 minutes by shuttle bus from Niigata Airport to Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal.

From Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal to Sado Kisen Ryotsu Port Terminal, it takes about 1 hour by jetfoil and about 2 hours and 30 minutes by car ferry.

I It takes about 1 hour by car from Ryotsu Port to Sado Gold Mine. Alternatively, it takes about 1 hour 15 minutes from Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen Bus Stop to Sado Kinzan-mae Bus Stop by route bus (main line). Alternatively, from the Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen bus stop to Kirarium Sado bus stop, it takes about one hour by route bus (main line). At Kirarium Sado Bus Stop, transfer to the Aikawa Loop Line (bound for KInzan) and it takes about 15 minutes from Kirarium Sado Bus Stop to Sado Kinzan-mae Bus Stop.

Ruzai is a punishment (exile) in which a criminal is banished from the capital to a remote place or island, especially when the exile is to an island called “Shima-Nagashi.” Ruzai is the second most serious punishment after capital punishment. Under the ancient Japanese Ritsuryo system, penalties were divided into three ranks according to distance from the capital: Konru (near), Churu (middle), and Onru (far), with the more serious the crime, the farther the exile. Sado Island in Niigata Prefecture was designated as an “Onru” place in the Nara period (in 724). (In addition to Sado, there were six other places of Onru: Izu, Oki, Awa, Tosa, and Hitachi.)

Since then, about 70 people have been exiled to Sado Island during the 700 years from the Nara Period (8th century) to the Muromachi Period (14th to 15th centuries). During the Warring States Period (the period of Nobunaga Oda and Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the 16th century), there was no Shima-Nagashi to Sado Island. Among those who were exiled to the island (i.e., exiles) were emperor, noblemen and cultural figures such as Retired Emperor Juntoku and Nichiren Saint in the Kamakura period (13th century) and Zeami in the Muromachi period (15th century). Until the Edo period, exiles on Sado Island were mainly political and thought criminals.

Nichiren Saint was deported to Sado Island in winter of 1271 since the content of “Rissho Ankoku-ron” made the Kamakura Shogunate angry. He lived in Tsukahara Sanmaido and Ichinosawa deportation place , in the situation of extremely cold weather, poor clothes and foods and under the danger of assassination. Later, the teaching of Nichiren Saint spread through Sado Island, and many places and legends related to him are still remaining. In spring of 1274, Nichiren Saint was pardoned and went back to Kamakura since the predictions of “civil war of Hojo family” and “Mongol invasion” written in “Rissho Ankoku-ron” came true.

In 1434, Zeami who perfected the art of Noh dramas was suddenly deported from the capital to Sado Island at the age of 72. (One theory says the reason was because he conflicted Ashikaga Yoshinori, Shogun of Muromachi Shogunate about the successor of Noh dramas). A demon mask “Beshimi” which Zeami is said to have worn when he played Noh praying for rain is still kept in “Shoboji” a deportaion place of Sado Island, and can be appreciated at “Rosoku Noh” performance in June every year. According to the legend, Zeami died at the age of 81 after going back to Kyoto, but it is uncertain since there is no official record. It is thought that he probably died in Sado Island.

punishment-exile-banish-sado-island-niigata-japan-travel “Mano goryo” is a place where the Retired Emperor Juntoku was cremated. The crest of chrysanthemum is placed on the gate since the Imperial Household Agency is in charge of this site. The Retired Emperor Juntoku was deported to Sado Island in 1221 for losing in the Jokyu war which he attempted to attack the Kamakura Shogunate. He was 25 at that time. Since then, he lived in Sado for 21 years, but he killed himself at the age of 46 from despair that he may never go back to the capital. In Sado Island, there are many monuments and folklores related to the Retired Emperor Juntoku other than Mano Goryo Mausoleum. Retired Emperor Juntoku had three imperial sons and daughters on Sado Island.

The Sado Gold mine was discovered in the Edo period (early 17th century). Although the term “exiles” is associated with “hard labor at the Sado Gold Mine,” exiles never actually worked at the Sado Gold Mine. As a result of the extension of the Sado Gold Mine tunnels below sea level, mining operations were slowed down by a large amount of spring water, and when there was a shortage of “Mizukae Ninsoku” (water-draining laborers) to work in the mine, people without family registration, known as “Mushuku-nin,” were organizationally sent to Sado Island from Edo, Osaka, and Nagasaki to work as “Mizukae Ninsoku.” Basically, “Mushuku-nin” are not criminals. The exiles can be roughly divided into two categories: those who were “Rukei” and those who were “Ento.” Most “Rukei” were punishments for political and thought crimes committed by emperors, court nobles, government officials, cultural figures, and others. Even if they were exiled to Sado Island, they were not forced to stay in jail but were placed in the care of temples or local feudal lords, who provided them with food. As long as they did not leave Sado Island, they could walk around freely. “Ento” was a penalty established by the Edo shogunate for criminals who gambled, injured, stole, or committed arson. From the 17th to the beginning of the 18th century, about 250 exiles were sent to Sado Island as “Ento.” The treatment of exiles of “Ento” was basically the same, with town officials and merchants designated by the Sado Magistrate’s Office acting as “Miuke-nin(surety)” and allowing the exiles to work stores or to make use of their handicrafts so that they could work on their own. After being released, a few remained on Sado Island. Incidentally, from the middle of the Edo period (18th century), “Ento” to Sado Island was prohibited due to the development of the Sado Gold Mine. Before the discovery of the Sado Gold Mine, the village of Aikawa, located at the foot of the Sado Gold Mine, was a poor fishing village with only a few dozen houses. During the Edo period, Sado Island prospered as one of the largest gold mines in the world and was a port of call on the Kitamae-bune route, so many people from outside Sado Island moved to the island in search of work. As the development of the Sado Gold Mine progressed, the population of Sado Island is said to have exceeded 100,000, but even in tiny Aikawa village alone, 50,000 people lived there. (The current population of Sado Island is 50,000.)

Access to Mano Goryo

From Tokyo

It takes about 2 hours from JR Tokyo Station to JR Niigata Station by Joetsu Shinkansen. It takes about 15 minutes by local bus from JR Niigata Station to Niigata Port.

From Osaka

It takes about 1 hour from Itami Airport to Niigata Airport. It takes about 25 minutes by shuttle bus from Niigata Airport to Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal.

From Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal to Sado Kisen Ryotsu Port Terminal, it takes about 1 hour by jetfoil and about 2 hours and 30 minutes by car ferry. It takes about 1 hour from Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen Bus Stop to Mano Goryo Iriguchi Bus Stop by route bus (south line). Get off at Mano Goryo Iriguchi Bus Stop and walk for about 5 minutes.

The Senkaku Bay on Sado Island was the holy place of the movie “Your Name”!? I went to Senkaku Bay because I’ve seen a wonderful view that is similar to the Scandinavian fjords on a travel magazines.

There is “Senkaku Bay” on the southernmost part of Sotokaifu Coast, located northwest of Sado Island, Niigata Prefecture. Senkaku Bay is a fjord and is general term for 5 small bays, and the total length is about 3 kilometers. In ancient times, when the highest peak of Sado Island, Mt Kinpoku-san, erupted, lava flowed into the coastal terrace, and it was eroded by the winter winds and the rough waves of the Sea of Japan over the years. It is a representative scenic spot on Sado Island, and it is also designated as a scenic spot of the country. In 1932, when the Ministry of Education conducted a survey of the natural monuments, the researcher praised it as “The beauty of the coast that could be rival or surpassed the scenery of Hardanger bay of Norway in Northern Europe, which is a superb view of the world,” and was named “Senkaku Bay.” It was named so by translating its name Hardanger directly. From the observation deck of Senkaku Bay, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the landscape, and you can enjoy the beauty of the landscape consisting of rough cliffs and rock reefs. There is also a sightseeing boat. The five small bays of Senkaku Bay are called “Yusen-Kyo Bay” (the first view), “Litsuun-Kyo Bay” (the second view), “Kongou-Kyo Bay” (the third view), “Zendana-Kyo Bay” (the fourth view), and “Ageshima-Kyo Bay” (the fifth view), respectively. The Senkaku Bay Ageshima Amusement Park is a tourist facility located in the fifth view, Ageshima-Kyo Bay. The sightseeing boat takes visitors from the second to the fifth view. The bottom of the boat has a glass window so visitors can see what is happening under the sea. The bridge that connects Ageshima that is located off the coast of Senkaku Bay is called “Machiko Bridge”. Senkaku Bay is a filming location where a movie titled “Your Name” was filmed by Kazuo Kikuta, a movie released in 1953. “Your name” was so popular at that time that women is said to be disappeared from a woman’s public bath when the program starts. The way of winding a stole of a main character, Machiko Ujiie, was called “Machiko Maki” and it became popular among women. There is no “Machiko Bridge” any more that was a suspension bridge at that time, but in the reference room in the second floor of the Mini Aquarium, a panel photo of filming is displayed. In Senkaku Bay, there is the only small aquarium in Sado Island. Fish near Senkaku Bay are on display there, and there is an experience corner where you can experience direct contact with turban shell, sea urchins, “Doctor fish.” and so on. You can also see “swimming of squids” which is rare throughout the country. In summer, the area around Senkaku Bay becomes a sunflower field. It is popular as a “sunflower field where you can see the sea,” but it is especially famous sunflower field located in Ogawa Village on the way from Sado Gold Mine to Senkaku Bay. It has very beautiful contrast of yellow sunflower and blue sea and blue sky.

Access to Senkaku Bay Ageshima Amusement Park

From Tokyo

It takes about 2 hours from JR Tokyo Station to JR Niigata Station by Joetsu Shinkansen. It takes about 15 minutes by local bus from JR Niigata Station to Niigata Port.

From Osaka

It takes about 1 hour from Itami Airport to Niigata Airport. It takes about 25 minutes by shuttle bus from Niigata Airport to Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal.

From Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal to Sado Kisen Ryotsu Port Terminal, it takes about 1 hour by jetfoil and about 2 hours and 30 minutes by car ferry. It takes about 1 hour by car from Ryotsu Port to Senkaku Bay Ageshima Amusement Park. Alternatively, from the Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen bus stop to Kirariumu Sado bus stop, it takes about 1 hour by route bus (main line). At Kirariumu Sado Bus Stop, transfer to the route bus (Kaifu Line) and it takes about 20 minutes to Senkaku-wan Ageshima-Yuen Bus Stop. 1 minute-walk from Senkaku-wan Ageshima-Yuen bus stop.

The look of “Shukunegi” village in Sado Island which a famous actress, Sayuri Yoshinaga was also taken back in the time. With a taste of slipping through time, I took walks on this amazing village.

At Shukunegi located in the southern tip of Sado Island, Niigata Prefecture, is a small village developed as a port of Kitamae-Bune from the middle of Edo era to Meiji era. At that time, ship-owners, shipwrights and other people who engaged in shipping and shipbuilding industries were lived there.

Even today, this village remarkably retains the atmosphere and the buildings of those years. Building using vertical wooden plates are created by materials of the bulk and it is bringing unique atmosphere in the village. This is because the wood used for ships are durable and it was strong enough to protect the house from the rain, wind and salt damage. Also, in order to make the most of the limited land, the second floor of the building has same area as the ground floor in Shukunegi and there are more than 100 buildings in the entire village. In 1991, it was designated as “Important Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings” in Japan and it was only one in Niigata Prefecture. Today, “House of Seikuro” which was a house of ship-owner, “Kaneko Family’s House” where shipwrights lived and “Triangle House” built in triangle shape according to the narrow shape of land are open to the public.

At the entrance to the village from the sea side, a tall bamboo fences for wind protection is built and they protect the village from the sea breeze from the Sea of Japan. Such bamboo fences are often observed on the Sea of Japan coast, but there is a small hole which is just enough for one person to pass through. When you see the view of village behind the entrance let you have an illusion of slipping through time.

When you look over the village from the hill, you can see many roofs with stones on top of piled shin sliced boards. This is called “Ishioki Kobabuki Roof”, which is unique roofing technology that mainly be seen at Shukunegi and Watanabe family’s house of Sekikawa in Niigata Prefecture.

Originally “Ishioki Kobabuki Roof” was major traditional roofing technology in Japan until the roof of roof tile become popular. The stone is placed on the roof in order not to fly boards by the wind. This is unique style of roof on the Sea of Japan coast.

“Triangle House” is a symbol of Shukunegi. It became famous by television advertising of JR East which actress Sayuri Yoshinaga appeared. Triangle house is a house built according to the shape of the land, and the knowledge and technology of shipwrights are used to build this house. It was used as a residence until 2006, but in 2012, it opened to the public.

“House of Seikuro” is a mansion of a ship owner who made fortune by Kitamae-Bune from the late Edo period to the Meiji Period. Its outside was constructed with vertical wooden plates and it gives simple impression to the house, but indoor uses many precious woods such as zelkova and Japanese cypress, paints floor boards with persimmon tannin, and it is gorgeously built that lacquer is painted to pillars, girders, ceilings, and wooden fittings. The highlight of this house is the living room with the open ceiling called “Omae” on first floor, and the Shoin-zukuri style alcove on second floor that was said luxury for commons at that time.

There is a traditional performing art called “Chitochinton” in Shukunegi village. People pray for safe voyage and prosperity of descendants and dedicate to the shrine while they are dancing erotically but comically. In the neighboring Hamochi district has same type of traditional performing art called “Tsuburosashi”, however, both “Chitochinton” and “Tsuburosashi” are unique traditional performing arts which only transmitted to the territory of the lords (Mr. Hamochihonma) who dominated the southern part of Sado Island around the 16^th century. You can see this in “Shukunegi Festival” held in October every year.

Access to Shukunegi

From Tokyo

It takes about 2 hours from JR Tokyo Station to JR Niigata Station by Joetsu Shinkansen. It takes about 15 minutes by local bus from JR Niigata Station to Niigata Port.

From Osaka

It takes about 1 hour from Itami Airport to Niigata Airport. It takes about 25 minutes by shuttle bus from Niigata Airport to Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal.

From Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal to Sado Kisen Ryotsu Port Terminal, it takes about 1 hour by jetfoil and about 2 hours and 30 minutes by car ferry.

From Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen Bus Stop to Sawata Bus Station it takes about 45 minutes by route bus (main line). At Sawata Bus Station, transfer to a local bus (Ogi Line) and it takes about 1 hour 15 minutes to Shukunegi bus stop.

Traditional performing art of Sado, “Tsuburosashi” is popular amongst many people regardless of age and gender. It is exactly a rare festival of Japan! Its dance is too dirty and you may feel you do not know where to look, but its rhythmic move absorbs your attention.

I will introduce traditional performing art “Tsuburosashi” which has been handed down to Hamochi district where is the southern part of Sado Island, Niigata prefecture. This is also designated as an intangible cultural asset of Niigata prefecture. “Tsuburosashi” is one of Kagura, the sacred Shinto music and dance, that dedicates to the shrine praying for huge harvest and prosperity of descendants. There are two theories about this Kagura. The one is that about 400 to 500 years ago, a tea-server who served for the lord of Hamochi brought this Kagura back from Kyoto when he went there for training of tea ceremony. The other one is that he mastered it at an entertainment stall of Gion festival and brought it back. Depending on the shrine, the contents differ a bit. Such as there are some dance with lions or demons, but in common, “Tsuburosashi” who play male role, and “Sasarasuri “who play female role, appear in the dance.

What is Tsuburosashi?

The characters in Kagura is three, which are “Tsuburosashi”, “Sasarasuri” and “Zenidaiko”. “Tsuburo” of “Tsuburosashi” means the male organ and it is said that “Sashi” is converted from “Sasuru (to rub or stroke something)”. The setting of “Tsuburosashi” is a man of unequalled energy. Beautiful female role, “Sasarasuri” tempts “Tsuburosashi” while making noise by rubbing the bamboo sticks called Sasara. Then Zenidaiko, who is rich but ugly woman enters to the stage to tempts “Tsuburosashi” by shaking her bust and hip and make jingling sound of tambourine, Zenidaiko. She wears a hood on her head and cover her face because she is ugly.

About the strange festival “Tsuburosashi”

men. When there are performers who play the drums and flutes, there are about 10 people. The time of performance is about 10 minutes. With lively music performed by Japanese orchestra, “Tsuburosashi” moves a huge dildo humorously and start performing dance step while holding a dildo between his legs. Gradually “Tsuburosashi” start stroking a dildo, the movement of hands become smooths and a dildo moves like throbbing. When beautiful “Sasarasuri” and “Zenidaiko” who has beautiful body try to tempt him, a huge dildo between “Tsuburosashi”’s legs dance harder. Finally, he strokes a dildo hardly, and wipe “something” off its tip. He makes the gesture as if he is scattering it around for many times, and performance will be over. He prays for huge harvest and prosperity of descendants and scatters “seeds”. You can watch performance of “Tsuburosashi” at the event of Hamochi festival on June 15 every year. The location is in the square of Hamochi chamber of commerce. On the day of Hamochi festival, “Tsuburosashi” will stroll about the houses or stores in Hamochi district to entertain people until late at night.

Access to Hamochi chamber of commerce

From Tokyo

It takes about 2 hours from JR Tokyo Station to JR Niigata Station by Joetsu Shinkansen. It takes about 15 minutes by local bus from JR Niigata Station to Niigata Port.

From Osaka

It takes about 1 hour from Itami Airport to Niigata Airport. It takes about 25 minutes by shuttle bus from Niigata Airport to Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal.

From Sado Kisen Niigata Port Terminal to Sado Kisen Ryotsu Port Terminal, it takes about 1 hour by jetfoil and about 2 hours and 30 minutes by car ferry.

From Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen Bus Stop to Sawata Bus Station it takes about 45 minutes by local bus (Main Line). At Sawata Bus Station, transfer to a local bus (Ogi Line) and it takes about1 hour to Hamochi Shokokai-mae bus stop.

Access to Sugawara Shrine

From Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen Bus Stop to Sawata Bus Station it takes about 45 minutes by local bus (Main Line). At Sawata Bus Station, transfer to a local bus (Ogi Line) and it takes about1 hour to Sugawara Jinja-iriguchi bus stop (free get-off section.)

Access to Kusakari Shrine

From Ryotsu Port Sado Kisen Bus Stop to Sawata Bus Station it takes about 45 minutes by local bus (Main Line). At Sawata Bus Station, transfer to a local bus (Ogi Line) and it takes about1 hour to Sugawara Jinja-iriguchi bus stop.