Category: Fukuoka Prefecture

Mojiko Retro District is not the only place with red brick buildings. The nearest station to Mojiko Red Brick Place is Moji Station, not Mojiko Station.

Moji Red Brick Place is a complex located in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture, a 3 minute-walk from JR Moji Station, using the former Kyushu factory of Sapporo Beer, and includes a museum, gallery, restaurant, etc. Speaking of red-brick buildings in Kitakyushu City, the Mojiko Retro District, an area centering on JR Mojiko Station, is famous, and Mojiko Red Brick Place is another tourist spot where brick buildings remain as well.

The former Kyushu factory of Sapporo Beer operated as a beer brewery until 2000, and 4 brick buildings still exist: the Old Office Building (Moji Beer Brick Building), the Old Brewing Building, and the Old Warehouse Building, built in 1913, and the Old Union Building, built in 1917. This beer factory changed its name to Teikoku Beer, Sakura Beer, Dainippon Beer, Nippon Beer, and Sapporo Beer, and through mergers, consolidations, and divisions, carved a history of beer production here for 87 years, but it was closed down when the new Kyushu factory was built in Hita City, Oita Prefecture. The buildings have a retro atmosphere from the Taisho era (1912-1926), which is a mix of Japanese and Western culture called Taisho Roman, and are registered as national tangible cultural properties.

Teikoku Brewery was founded in 1912 in Dairi Town (now Kitakyushu City), Fukuoka Prefecture, and was the first full-fledged beer manufacturer in Kyushu with the trademark “Sakura Beer.” Demand in Japan and overseas grew from Moji, an international port and railway hub. At its peak, Teikoku Brewery had a 9% share of the domestic market, making it the third largest beer maker in Japan. After 1929, the company’s name was changed to Sakura Brewery. However, due to fierce market competition in the beer industry, a shortage of beer ingredients, and government policies of economic control in the early Showa era (first half of the 20th century), Sakura Beer merged with Dai Nippon Beer in 1943. In 1949, after World War II, as a result of the dissolution of the zaibatsu, financial clique, the “Law for the Elimination of Excessive Concentration of Economic Power” was applied, and Dai Nippon Beer was split up into Nippon Beer and Asahi Beer (now Asahi Beer). Nippon Beer started out under the Nippon Beer brand, but struggled against Kirin Brewery and Asahi Brewery, and with beer lovers hoping for a revival of Sapporo Beer, the company was revived in 1956, first in Hokkaido, and then sold nationwide in 1957. In 1964, the company name was changed to “Sapporo Beer.” *Sapporo Beer was established in 1886 as Sapporo Beer Brewery. In 1906, due to intensifying market competition, Nippon Beer fell into a management crisis, so Sapporo Beer, Osaka Beer (now Asahi Beer) and Nippon Beer merged to become Dai Nippon Beer, but the Sapporo Beer brand survived in some areas. In 1943, beer trademarks were banned due to economic controls, and the Sapporo Beer brand temporarily disappeared.

The Moji Beer Brick Building was built in 1913 as the office building of the former Teikoku Brewery. It is a two-story building made of slag brick with a tower. Slag is the residue produced when making iron, and the building uses slag bricks manufactured by the Government-Managed Yawata Steel Works. It is the earliest slags brick building in Japan and the oldest authentic slag brick building in existence.

The largest red brick building is the Old Brewery Building. It was a factory that actually made beer, but the large-scale preparation facilities inside the Brewery Building are not open to the public. But at the special open houses held several times a year, you can observe the preparation facilities with a guide.

Cafe de Brick is a dining bar located in a corner of the “Old Brewery Building”. The interior makes use of the red brick walls and steel pillars and beams of the 100-year-old building. The name of the bar, Cafe de Brick, comes from a fictional store depicted in the autumn-themed “Brick Town” of four landscape paintings by Kitakyushu-born illustrator Watase Seizo that feature Moji Red Brick Place.

Moji Red Brick Place is exhibiting ceramic panel paintings by Seizo Watase. Seizo Watase’s gallery is located in the former O.S.K.Line Building in the Mojiko Retro District.

Dairi Kaigan Ryokuchi (Dairi Coast Green Space) is a promenade across National Route 199 from Moji Red Brick Place. You can see people taking a leisurely stroll or jogging while enjoying the view of the Kanmon Straits.  

Access to Moji Red Brick Place

It takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes from Haneda Airport to Kitakyushu Airport. It takes about 35 minutes by Nishitetsu Bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station. It takes about 5 minutes by Kagoshima Main Line from JR Kokura Station to JR Moji Station. Get off at JR Moji Station, a short walk. It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes by Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station to JR Kokura Station.

You can learn about the history, culture, and nature of the Kanmon Straits, but it’s also a museum like a game center that both adults and children can enjoy.

The Kanmon Strait Museum is a hands-on tourist facility located in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture, an 8 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station, where visitors can enjoy the entire Kanmon Straits. The museum introduces the history, culture, and nature of the Kanmon Straits through visual and interactive experiences.

The five-story Kanmon Strait Museum is divided into a paid zone and a free zone; the observation deck on the 5th floor is free of charge, and the Promenade Deck (free of charge) on the 4th floor is reminiscent of the decks of luxury cruise ships in the Taisho and Showa eras (early 20th century). The reception desk for the exhibition zone, which charges a fee, is on the 4th floor. From the 4th floor, visitors descend a ramp to the lower floors to view the exhibits. In the atrium between the 4th floor and the 2nd floor, there is the “Strait Atrium,” where visitors can enjoy powerful images and an interactive experience linked to the images on a giant 18m x 9m sail screen.

On the 3rd floor, the “Strait Historical Corridor” provides visitors with an overview of the history of the Kanmon Straits from ancient times to the modern era, with 10 famous puppet artists recreating historical scenes set in the straits through puppet art, including the Battle of Dannoura, the Duel at Ganryujima Island, and the Battle of Bakan.

In the “Strait Experience Zone” on the second floor, there are booths where visitors can experience and learn through game-like activities, such as a ship-handling simulator and a container crane operation simulator. There is also the “Strait Children’s Plaza,” a 10-meter-high space covered with net playground equipment.

In addition, on the second floor, there is also the Mojiko Banana Museum, which is free to enter and displays the roots of the Mojiko Banana no Tatakiuri (Banana Auction), nostalgic local materials, a life-size panel of the banana fairy “Banana Princess Luna” designed by popular Kitakyushu city-born illustrator Shiitake. Visitors can also watch a video of the story of the mysterious encounter between Banana Princess Luna and Moji Ward’s mascot character, Jimo. In the reference room, visitors can try their hand at selling bananas as a joke and enjoy taking commemorative photos with Jimo and Bananaman’s the Face Cutout Board.

The first floor is a free zone where visitors can enjoy taking commemorative photos of Moji Port‘s streets “Strait Retro Street” in the Taisho era (1912-1926). The Taisho era was characterized by an exotic atmosphere with a mix of Japanese and Western cultures, allowing visitors to experience Mojiko (Moji Port) as it was in bygone days.  

Access to Kanmon Strait Museum

It takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes from Haneda Airport to Kitakyushu Airport. It takes about 35 minutes by Nishitetsu Bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station. It takes about 15 minutes by Kagoshima Main Line (bound for Mojiko Station) from JR Kokura Station to JR Mojiko Station. 10 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station. It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes by Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station to JR Kokura Station.

Mojiko Station, a station with a Starbucks with a Taisho era atmosphere

JR Mojiko Station is the starting point of the Kyushu Railway (JR Kyushu) Kagoshima Main Line in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture. The Mojiko Station building was designated a National Important Cultural Property in 1988, so Kitakyushu City has been developed a tourist area called Mojiko Retro, which also utilizes historical buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries in the area surrounding Mojiko Station.

JR Mojiko Station opened in 1891 (Meiji 24) as Moji Station (hereinafter referred to as former Moji Station), the starting station of the former Kyushu Railway. (The former Kyushu Railway was nationalized in 1907.) The former Moji Station was built near the Kyushu Railway History Museum, about 200 meters away from the current Mojiko Station, but as the Mojiko area has developed, in 1914 (Taisho 3), the former Moji Station was moved to its current location. In 1942 (Showa 17), when the Kanmon Railway Tunnel opened, the connecting station became Dairi Station, so Dairi Station was renamed Moji Station, and the former Moji Station was renamed Mojiko Station.

The historic Mojiko Station building has been remodeled over its long use, and its appearance has been changing. Due to its age, conservation and repair work began in 2012. At the same time, a detailed survey of Mojiko Station revealed its history, and it was decided to restore the station to its Taisho era (1912-1926) appearance. Restoration work was completed in 2019. Mojiko Station is a symmetrical two-story wooden building built in 1914 (Taisho 3). The exterior walls are coated with mortar to give it a stone-clad look, and the roof is covered with natural stone slabs, making it a Neo-Renaissance building. The entrance of the building is a station building with a design inspired by the “門(gate)” of Mojiko. Mojiko is written 門司港 in Chinese characters. In the Taisho era, Japan National Railways station buildings were graded from first to fifth class, and Mojiko Station was a first-class station. Other than Mojiko Station, Tokyo Station is the only other first-class station in existence, and Tokyo Station is also designated as a National Important Cultural Property (2003).

From the Meiji era to the early Showa era (until 1960), railroad cars were classified from first to third class. The “former first and second-class waiting rooms” were used by passengers boarding first and second-class cars. The former first and second-class waiting room has a mantelpiece, varnished oregon pine woodwork, and walls are decorated with black plaster. In addition, mirror above the mantelpiece also retains a Taisho era advertisement for the former Mikado Shokudo Restaurant, which was once located on the second floor, giving visitors a sense of history. Currently used as the Midori-no-madoguchi (Tickets Office) and tourist information counter, it provides travel information at a counter with an elegant atmosphere that matches the atmosphere of the “former first and second-class waiting rooms.”

The former third-class waiting room is used to house the coffee chain Starbucks. Inside the store, visitors can take a break with a cup of coffee in a space that preserves the atmosphere of the station, with the logos of previous generations of Starbucks Coffee on display and tables made from railroad rails.

Various historical assets remain in the station, including the washroom, hand basin, and waterworks that have been in use since the opening of the former Moji Station. The Chozubachi in the first-floor restroom is a bronze hand basin, and is called the “Lucky Chozubachi” because it was spared the wartime offerings of metal. There also remains a drinking place in front of the toilets called “Kaerimizu.” After the war, repatriates from the continent who alight at Moji port were relieved when they drank this water, hence the name “Kaerimizu.”

On the station platform of Mojiko Station, directly in front of the ticket gate, there is a “0 Mile Monument” marking the starting point of the Kagoshima Main Line. Nearby is a bell that was used as a departure bell when the current station building was opened in 1914, and was brushed up and installed as a “Departure Bell” to bless travelers’ departure. 9:00 to 18:00 only, tourists are free to ring it.

The Taisho era-inspired station attendant uniform is an original worn only at Mojiko Station. The hat with three lines is the stationmaster.

Access to JR Mojiko Station

It takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes from Haneda Airport (Tokyo) to Kitakyushu Airport. Approximately 35 minutes by Nishitetsu bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station. It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes by Sanyo Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station to JR Kokura Station. Take the Kagoshima Main Line (bound for Mojiko Station) from JR Kokura Station to JR Mojiko Station for about 15 minutes and get off at JR Mojiko Station.  

In Seicho Matsumoto’s novel “Manners and Customs at time,” the culprit uses the ritual at Mekari Shrine to set up an alibi.

Mekari Shrine is located in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture, at the northernmost tip of Kyushu (in Mekari Park). It is the setting for Seicho Matsumoto’s novel “Manners and Customs at time,” and is famous for the Mekari Shinto ritual held early in the morning on New Year’s Day of the lunar calendar. There is a literary monument of Seicho Matsumoto in the precincts of the shrine.

According to shrine legend, the shrine was founded in the 9th year of the Emperor Chuai era (200 AD) by Empress Jingu (Empress of the 14th Emperor Chuai) in gratitude for her victory in the conquest of the Three Korean Kingdoms. The deity is Seoritsuhime, the Aratama of Amaterasu Omikami, who governs the ebb and flow of the tides. Seoritsuhime has been watching over the Kanmon Straits, where the tides are strong, for more than 1,800 years.

The Aratama is a divine spirit whose rough aspect has been emphasized to become a single divinity.

The Mekari Shinto ritual originates from an ancient legend that Empress Jingu celebrated her triumphant return from the conquest of Three Korean Kingdoms by personally becoming a Shinto priest and offering wakame seaweed from the Kanmon Straits to the gods. “Mekari” means “to reap wakame seaweed. On New Year’s Day of the lunar calendar, at the time of the Ox and Tiger (from 2:00 to 4:00 a.m.), three priests enter the sea at low tide and reap wakame seaweed by the light of torches. They offer the wakame seaweed to the gods and pray for safe voyages and a bountiful catch. The ritual was considered a secret ceremony and was closed to the public until before World War II (1945).

The Mekari Shinto ritual is also held at the same time on the same day at Sumiyoshi Shrine, the Ichinomiya main shrine in Shimonoseki, on the opposite shore. The Mekari Shinto ritual at Sumiyoshi Shrine is not open to the public.

 

Access to Mekari Shrine

It takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes from Haneda Airport (Tokyo) to Kitakyushu Airport. It takes about 35 minutes by Nishitetsu Bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station.

It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes by Sanyo Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station to JR Kokura Station.

Take the Kagoshima Main Line (bound for Mojiko Station) from JR Kokura Station to JR Mojiko Station for about 15 minutes and get off at JR Mojiko Station.

It is 2 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station to Kyushu Railway Kinenkan Station on the Kitakyushu Bank Retro Line. It takes 10 minutes from Kyushu Railway Kinenkan Station to Kanmon Kaikyo Mekari Station. It is 8 minute- walk from Kanmon Kaikyo Megari Station, or from JR Mojiko Station take Nishitetsu Bus (bound for Mekari) to Mekari Jinja-mae bus stop and it is a short walk.

Recommended sightseeing spots in Mekari Park

Mekari Park is located at the western edge of Setonaikai National Park, in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture, the northernmost part of Kyushu, it is an urban park that developed in the area of Mt. Kojo (altitude about 175m), where the ruins of Moji Castle are located. It is also close to Mojiko Retro District. Its total area is 37.1 ha. The vast park also includes a waterfront area with up-close views of the Kanmon Straits, the Kanmon Bridge and passing ships.

Mekari Park has the “Second Observation Deck” that offers a spectacular view of the Kanmon Straits and Kanmon Bridge. From the Second Observation Deck, a panoramic view stretches from Mojiko to Shimonoseki (Yamaguchi Prefecture). The view is popular not only during the daytime, but also at night when the illuminated Kanmon Bridge and city lights add color to the scene.

In addition, a large mural, “Genpei Dannoura Battle,” approximately 3 m high and 44 m long, depicting the battle of Dannoura (1185), is installed on the Second Observation Deck. The original of this mural was created with reference to the “Engi-ezu of Emperor Antoku,” a shrine treasure of Akama Jingu Shrine (Shimonoseki City, Yamaguchi Prefecture), which sits on the opposite shore of Mekari Park, and was expressed using approximately 1,400 ceramic panels (30cm x 35cm) made of Arita ware porcelain, making it the largest ceramic mural in Japan. Incidentally, Arita ware is porcelain produced in Arita Town, Saga Prefecture, and the surrounding area, and was called Imari ware during the Edo period (17th to mid-19th centuries).

The scene in which Nii no Ama (wife of Taira no Kiyomori, grandmother of Emperor Antoku) decides to commit suicide by drowning and comforts Emperor Antoku (8 years old) when the defeat of the Heike (“Heike” meaning the Taira clan) becomes decisive.

The scene in which Kenreimonin (daughter of Taira no Kiyomori, mother of Emperor Antoku), who threw herself into the sea in pursuit of Emperor Antoku, is saved by a warrior of the Minamoto clan.

The scene in which Minamoto no Yoshitsune, pursued by Taira no Noritsune, a fierce Heike general, jumps from one boat to another among eight boats to fend off Heike attacks. This scene has been passed down through the ages as “Yoshitsune’s eight-boat jump.”

Norfolk Square was developed in the image of a seaside park in Norfolk City, Virginia, U.S.A., the sister city of Kitakyushu City, The square features an anchor monument with the city emblem and map of Norfolk City as its motif. The distance between Norfolk Square and Dannoura on the opposite shore is about 600 m wide at the narrowest part of the Kanmon Straits. It is a difficult place to navigate with tidal currents reaching up to 10 knots, and is also famous as the site of the ancient battle of Dannoura. There are many benches set up in the plaza so people can see the Kanmon Straits, and people can watch the ships passing through the Kanmon Straits. In addition, a 1-km section from Norfolk Square to Shiomihana Park, passing under the Kanmon Bridge, is a Tide-viewing promenade, so it is also recommended to watch the tides flow like a river while listening to the sound of the waves. The Kanmon Straits are one of Japan’s three most rapid tidal currents, along with Naruto Straits and Kurushima Straits.

The Mojiko Retro Kanko Line (nickname: Shiokaze-go) is a sightseeing trolley train that runs 2.1km between Mojiko and Mekari Park. With a maximum speed of 15km/h, it is the slowest railway in Japan, and because it runs slowly, you can enjoy plenty of views of the Mojiko Retro District and the Kanmon Strait. There are two stations within Mekari Park: Norfolk Hiroba Station and the terminal station, Kanmonkaikyo Mekari Station. If you want to access the second observation deck, get off at Norfolk Hiroba Station, or if you want to access Mekari Shrine or the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel, get off at Kanmonkaikyo Mekari station, it is convenient. Regular service runs on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays (all year round, excluding New Year’s holidays). The ride from Kyushu Tetsudo Kinenkan Station to Kanmonkaikyo Mekari Station is 10 minutes. There are 11 round trips a day, every 40 minutes, from 10:00 to 17:00. There is also a night service (6 round trips) until 21:00.

*Due to the naming rights system, the Mojiko Retro Kanko Line is now known as the Kitakyushu Bank Retro Train.

In front of Kanmonkaikyo Mekari Station, the stainless-steel electric locomotive “EF30 1” and the passenger car “Ohafu 33 488” are preserved in static condition. Oahu 33 488, nicknamed Kanmon-go, is used as a rest area and cafe. The name of the cafe is “Ohafu 33”. (The cafe is currently closed)

On the west side of the static preservation of railroad cars (Kanmon-go), there is a park playground equipment in the shape of an octopus, one of the largest in Japan, called “Tako Yama (octopus mountain)”. The octopus from the Kanmon Straits has a reputation for being very tasty and firm because it is nurtured by the fast currents of the Kanmon Straits. The area around Tako Yama is covered with lawn, from which one can enjoy a panoramic view of the Kanmon Straits.

A 6 minut- walk from Kanmonkaikyo Mekari Station, Mekari Shrine is located at the west end of Mekari Park. Mekari in Mekari Park means “to reap Wakame seaweed” and is derived from the Mekari Shrine. According to shrine legend, the shrine was founded in 200 AD. For more details are explained in the “Mekari Shrine” section.

The pedestrian entrance to the Kanmon Tunnel is located near Mekari Shrine, allowing visitors to cross the bottom of the Kanmon Straits on foot. 10 minutes away is “Mimosusogawa Park” (Dannoura ancient battlefield site), a famous sightseeing spot in Shimonoseki. For more details are explained in the “Kanmon Tunnel” section.

Access to  Mekari Park

It takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes from Haneda Airport (Tokyo) to Kitakyushu Airport. It takes about 35 minutes by Nishitetsu Bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station.

It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes by Sanyo Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station to JR Kokura Station.

About 15 minutes by Kagoshima Main Line (bound for Mojiko Station) from JR Kokura Station to JR Mojiko Station. 20 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station. Alternatively, from JR Mojiko Station take Nishitetsu Bus (bound for Mekari) to Mekari Koen Mae bus stop, a short walk.

Alternatively, it is 2 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station to Kitakyushu Bank Retro Line Kyushu Tetsudo Kinenkan Station. It takes about 10 minutes from Kyushu Railway Memorial Station to Norfolk Hiroba Station. A short walk from Norfolk Hiroba Station.

Summary of major buildings in the Mojiko Retro District from the era when it flourished due to foreign trade

Mojiko Retro is a sightseeing area that blends old and new buildings by utilizing buildings from the period when the area around JR Mojiko Station in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture prospered from foreign trade (late 19th to early 20th century) while developing hotels and commercial facilities with a Taisho Retro style. By the way, Taisho Roman is a culture that flourished during the Taisho era (1912-1926), a mixture of Japanese and Western styles. The following is an explanation of the major buildings in the Mojiko Retro District. These buildings are located within a 10-minute walk from JR Mojiko Station. An overview of Mojiko (Moji Port) is explained in the “Mojiko” section.

JR Mojiko Station

JR Mojiko Station is a two-story wooden station building built in 1914 (Taisho 3), designed in the Neo-Renaissance style, and was designated as a National Important Cultural Property in 1988, the first station building in Japan. Inside the station building, there is a bronze hand basin (Chozubachi) that has been there since the station’s establishment and was spared from metal offerings during the war, a tourist information center with an upscale atmosphere using the former first and second-class waiting rooms, a Starbucks coffee chain using the former third-class waiting room, and a “Zero Mile” monument that marks the starting point of the Kagoshima Main Line. More details are explained in the “Mojiko Station” section.

former Moji Mitsui Club

The former Moji Mitsui Club was built in 1921 (Taisho 10) as a guest house for Mitsui & Co. and was owned by the former Japanese National Railways after the war. With the privatization of the former Japanese National Railways, the former Moji Mitsui Club was transferred to Kitakyushu City free of charge; it was designated a National Important Cultural Property in 1990 and moved from the mountainous district to the Mojiko Retro District in 1994. The former Mojiko Mitsui Club was a two-story wooden structure, and Dr. Einstein stayed there in 1922 (Taisho 11). The guest rooms have been preserved as they were and are displayed as the Einstein Memorial Room. On the first floor is the Mitsui Club restaurant, which serves Mojiko‘s local delicacies such as Yaki curry and Fugu (blowfish) Kaiseki cuisine.

Dalian Friendship Memorial

Until the first half of the 20th century (1945), there was an important shipping route for continental trade between Moji Port and Dalian, so Kitakyushu City and Dalian City, China have active exchanges, and the two cities became friendship cities in 1979. In 1995, to commemorate the 15th anniversary of the friendship city agreement, the Dalian Friendship Memorial was built as a replica of the German-style building built by the Russian Empire in Dalian in 1902 (Meiji 25) as a symbol of friendship. The first floor is a Chinese restaurant, Dalian Akashia, and the second and third floors are tourist facilities with a social space and an introduction corner about Dalian City. In 1996, a replica of the same building was also constructed on the remains in Dalian as the Dalian Art Exhibition Hall. By the way, Dalian has long been called the “the acacia capital of the east”, and the acacia flowers bloom all at once every May.

The model for the Dalian Friendship Memorial is the former Eastern Qing Railway Steamship office building in Dalian. In 1898 (Meiji 22), in return for the Russian Empire preventing Japan from occupying the Liaodong Peninsula through the Triple Intervention, the Russian Empire obtained from the Qing Dynasty the lease of Liaodong Peninsula’s Lushun and Dalian and had the Eastern Qing Railway, established by the Russian Empire, develop the railroad line. Eastern Qing Railway Steamship is its subsidiary. After the Russo-Japanese War (1905), when Lushun and Dalian were transferred to Japan as leased land, the former Eastern Qing Railway Steamship office during the Japanese colonial period was used as a library. The Dalian Friendship Memorial was also a library when it first opened. The Dalian Friendship Memorial, with its beautiful contrast between the brown bricks and the white stones, and impressive triangular roof spire, is a popular spot for commemorative photos.

Kyushu Railway Memorial Museum

In 1888 (Meiji 21), the Kyushu Railway Company was established as Kyushu’s first railway company. The Kyushu Railway History Museum is a two-story brick building built in 1891 (Meiji 24) as the head office building of the Kyushu Railway Company, measuring 62 meters from east to west and 12 meters from north to south. In preparation for its opening as a railway history museum in 2003, large-scale renovations were carried out, including replacing the roof with metal sheets and building a steel frame inside, but the brick walls remained the same as when they were first built. This is a valuable building that conveys the technology of brick structures from the Meiji era. It is registered as a national tangible cultural property. Details are explained in the “Kyushu Railway Memorial Museum” section.

former O.S.K.Line Building

The former O.S.K.Line Building was built in 1917 (Taisho 6)as the Moji branch of Osaka Shosen Kaisha. This is a two-story wooden Western-style building with an impressive octagonal tower and exterior that harmonizes with orange tiles and white stone bands. At the time of its construction, during the Taisho era (1912-1926), Osaka Shosen Kaisha was the 8th largest shipping company in the world. At this time, Moji Port had 60 passenger ships sailing to Taiwan, China, India, and Europe in one month, so the first floor of the former O.S.K.Line Building was used as a waiting room for passenger ships on foreign routes and was crowded with passengers. The building was used until 1991, when it was purchased by Kitakyushu City and registered as a national registered tangible cultural property in 1999.

Currently, on the first floor there is a gallery of Mr. Seizou Watase, a famous illustrator from Kitakyushu City.

former Moji Customs House

In 1889 (Meiji 32), Moji Port was designated as the country’s special export port for coal, sulfur, rice, wheat, and flour, so Moji Customs was initially established as a branch office of Nagasaki Customs. In 1901 (Meiji 34), the transaction value of Moji Port exceeded that of Nagasaki Port, and it developed as one of Japan’s leading trading ports, ranking fourth in the country after Osaka Port, so in 1909 (Meiji 42), Moji Customs became independent from Nagasaki Customs and was established as Japan’s seventh customs. The former Moji Customs House is a two-story brick building with a tile roof. It was built in 1912 (Meiji 45) as the second generation building of the Moji Customs House, which was destroyed in a fire. It was used as a Customs building until the third-generation building was completed on the west coast in the early Showa era (1927), after which it was sold to the private sector and used as an office building. After the war (1945), it was used as a warehouse, but since it was a fine brick building from the Meiji era (1868-1912), Kitakyushu City purchased it with the aim of revitalizing the Mojiko area and promoting tourism. Restoration work was also carried out inside the building. The first floor has a spacious entrance hall with an atrium, a cafe, and a permanent exhibition room for Moji Customs, which is used as a place for residents and tourists to relax.

Moji Telecommunications Museum

The Moji Telecommunications Museum was built in 1924 (Taisho 13) as the Telephone Division building of the Moji Post Office of the Ministry of Communications, and was used as the Moji Telegraph Telephone Office and NTT West Japan Moji Office. The first three-story reinforced concrete building in Moji, it has a distinctive exterior with a combination of parabolic arches and vertical lines, and is sturdy enough to house a large number of heavy telephone exchanges. Currently, it is not used as a business office, but NTT West cooperates with Kitakyushu City’s Mojiko Retro Project to preserve the building and open it to the public free of charge as a museum exhibiting the evolution of telephones and exchanges. Inside the museum, you’ll find nostalgic telegraph and telephone equipment from the Taisho to Showa eras, including Morse telegraph equipment that was used from 1871 (Meiji 4), as well as a corner exhibiting the history of public telephones and mobile phones. You can also experience a “manual switchboard” from the days when telephone operators connected telephones, experience a rotary dial telephone, and experience the Morse code by striking a real electric key.

former Dalian Sea Route Warehouse

The former Dalian Sea Route Warehouse was built in 1929 as the Moji Customs No. 1 Shed, and its exterior is decorated a design with geometric patterns in the Art Deco style, which was very popular at the time. Inside the building, in addition to displaying maritime materials such as ports and passenger ships, there is also an exhibition room called Matsunaga Bunko, which collects nostalgic movies and entertainment materials. Incidentally, the building’s name comes from the fact that Moji Customs No. 1 Shed was an international terminal at the time, with about 40 shipping routes connecting to Dalian and Europe, etc. The Dalian route was particularly frequent, and thus the building was called the “Dalian Sea Route Warehouse.”

By the way, Moji Port developed around the No. 1 Funadamari (berth), where the old Moji Customs House was located, but as that facility became too small, a new wharf was built on the west coast in 1932 (Showa 7). Along with this, Moji Customs moved from the No. 1 Funadamari to the west coast, and a new five-story reinforced concrete building was completed in 1927 (Showa 2), and then in 1929 (Showa 4), the Moji Customs No. 1 Shed was completed for temporary storage of import/export cargo, cargo handling, and customs procedures. Moji Customs No. 1 Shed consists of a two-story passenger terminal and a one-story warehouse. The mooring post remains on the site of the Shed, but at the time, the quay on the west coast of Moji Port was right in front of the Shed, and ships could dock at the Shed. Passengers completed Departure inspections such as baggage inspection on the first floor and waited for the ship to depart on the second floor.

Later, as the volume of transactions increased, another Shed was added in 1938 (Showa 13). The continental sea route was booming, but it was cut off with the end of the war (1945). When the Korean War broke out in 1950, the Shed was requisitioned by the US military and returned in 1972. After its return, it was used as a temporary building for Moji Customs and public warehouse until 2008. In recent years, it had become noticeably dilapidated, so as part of the Moji Port Retro Project, Kitakyushu City purchased it and decided to reuse it as a tourist facility, and after restoration work, opened it to the public as the “Former Dalian Sea Route Warehouse” in 2013.

Access to the Mojiko Retro District

It takes about 1 hour and 50 minutes from Haneda Airport (Tokyo) to Kitakyushu Airport. About 35 minutes by Nishitetsu bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station.

It takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes by Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station (Osaka) to JR Kokura Station.

From JR Kokura Station, take the Kagoshima Main Line (bound for Mojiko Station) for about 15 minutes and get off at JR Mojiko Station.

Summary of sightseeing in Mojiko, a port town with an atmosphere of Taisho Roman and Showa Modern

Mojiko is an area centered around Mojiko Station in Moji-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture. Famous as a tourist destination, the area retains the atmosphere of an old port town with its coastal warehouses and historical buildings. Although the area is now part of Kitakyushu Port and there is no port named “Moji Port,” the name is derived from the area where Moji Port used to be and Mojiko Station, a key point of transportation in the region. Moji Port is written and pronounced Mojiko (門司港) in Japanese. Taisho Roman and Showa Modern refers to the culture that flourished from the 1910s to the 1930s, incorporating both Japanese and Western styles to create a nostalgic, old-fashioned atmosphere with modern elements. Taisho and Showa are the era names of Japan.

In 1889, Moji Port was designated as a special export port by the government to handle five commodities: coal, sulfur, rice, wheat, and flour, and it rapidly developed as a trading port on the continental route with a succession of branches of financial institutions, shipping companies, and trading companies. At this time, the Kanmon Tunnel and the Kanmon Bridge crossing the Kanmon Straits had not yet been constructed, and many Kanmon ferry boats were in operation, so Moji Port also served as the gateway to Kyushu. However, it gradually lost its status as a trading port due to the opening of the Kanmon Railway Tunnel in 1942, which made it possible to exchange logistics with Honshu without going through Mojiko Station, and the cessation of continental trade after the war (1945).

In 1988, the Mojiko Station building was designated as a National Important Cultural Property, and the area around old Moji Port was developed as the Mojiko Retro District, utilizing historical buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and now attracts more than 2 million tourists annually.

Major historical buildings in the Mojiko Retro District include Mojiko Station building, Kyushu Railway History Museum, former O.S.K.Line building, former Moji Mitsui Club, former Moji Customs House, and Moji Telecommunication Museum. (Details are explained in the “Mojiko Retro” section.)

The Kyushu Railway History Museum (2 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station) is a railroad museum housed in the headquarters building of the Kyushu Railway Company, the first company established in Kyushu in 1891. Inside the museum, the history of Kyushu’s railroads is introduced through photographs and models from that time. Outside, nostalgic actual vehicles such as steam locomotives and limited express trains are on display, some of which visitors can actually ride on. There is also a miniature railroad park where children can drive trains with equipment similar to that of an actual railroad. Details are explained in the “Kyushu Railway History Museum” section.

Mojiko is the birthplace of the “Banana no Tatakiuri (Banana Auction).” Banana no Tatakiuri is a method of selling bananas at auction that is said to have developed in Mojiko. The seller uses witty speeches to attract customers, and then gradually lowers the price starting with the highest price. The seller is accompanied by an assistant who receives payment and hands the bananas wrapped in newspaper to the buyer. The first commercial import of bananas to Japan was in 1903. Kinjiro Toshima of the Keelung branch of Osaka Shosen Kaisha (OSK) brought seven baskets (about 420 kg) of bananas from Taiwan to Kobe. Incidentally, until bananas were imported in cardboard boxes, they were transported in bamboo baskets; until the early 20th century, the trade was mainly 60 kg per basket.

Later, as banana imports increased, bananas were unloaded at Moji Port, partly due to its geographical proximity to Taiwan. Since ripe yellow bananas may be infested with insect pests, importation of yellow bananas is prohibited in order to prevent pest infestation. Therefore, all bananas freshly unloaded in Japan are green unripe bananas, and they are placed in a humid room to ripen to a yellow color before being released into the market. However, they are steamed or damaged during transportation, and as a means to obtain cash as quickly as possible, bananas are sold at street stalls, which is how the “Banana no Tatakiuri” method began.

A monument stands in front of JR Mojiko Station (on the side of the former Mojiko Mitsui Club), commemorating the birthplace of Banana no Tatakiuri. And at the Mojiko Retro Sightseeing Products Museum Minato House (6 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station), Banana no Tatakiuri demonstrations are held every Saturday and Sunday from 1 pm. (The demonstration may be canceled, so please check the schedule.)

In front of Kaikyo Plaza (5 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station), stand statues of Bananaman and Bananaman Black, the image characters of “Banana no Tatakiuri (Banana Auctions.)” The statues have unique poses and very realistic faces, making them a popular spot for commemorative photos. Kaikyo Plaza is a commercial complex lined with restaurants where you can enjoy local gourmet food, as well as cafes, general stores, seafood stores, souvenir shops, and more.

The Kanmon Strait Museum (8 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station) is an interactive museum that introduces the history, culture, and nature of the Kanmon Straits through various productions. The museum features the “Strait Atrium,” where visitors can enjoy an experience linked to video images on one of the largest screens in Japan; the “Kanmon Historical Corridor,” which uses puppet art to recreate historical scenes set in the Kanmon Straits; the “Strait Experience Zone,” where visitors can experience ship-handling simulations; and the “Kaikyo Retro Street,” which recreates a street scene of Mojiko Port in the Taisho Period (1912-1926). The “Mojiko Banana Museum,” which is related to the “banana no Tatakiuri (Banana Auction)” that originated in Mojiko, is also located here. Details are explained in the “Kanmon Strait Museum” section.

Ganryujima (Funashima) Island is located in the Kanmon Straits and is famous as the site of a duel between Miyamoto Musashi, the master of the two sword styles, and Sasaki Kojiro, the master of the secret sword methods, called Tsubamegaeshi. Boats to Ganryujima Island depart from either Karato Pier on the Shimonoseki side or Mojiko Pier near Mojiko Station. The boat ride takes about 10 minutes one way. The Mojiko Ganryujima Passage is currently not available on weekdays, and is only available on weekends and holidays. The history of Ganryujima Island is introduced in the ship’s announcements. Even taking into account the time it takes to get to the next boat, about one hour is sufficient for sightseeing at Ganryujima Island.

“Blue Wing Moji” (5 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station) is a blue drawbridge that spans the Funadamari (berth) in old Moji Port. It is one of the largest pedestrian-only drawbridges in Japan, with a total length of 108 meters, and it bounces up to a 60-degree angle with the water surface a total of six times between 10:00 and 16:00 every day. It takes 4 minutes for the drawbridge to open, 20 minutes for it to stay open, and 8 minutes for it to close. The Blue Wing Moji has been selected as a sacred place for lovers, and it is said that the first couple to cross the drawbridge hand in hand when it closes will be united for life. Also, at night, it is recommended to walk on the bridge with your feet illuminated while enjoying the view of the lit-up retro port town.

Starting time for the bridge to bounce: 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 / Ending time: 10:20, 11:20, 13:20, 14:20, 15:20, 16:20

Mojiko Retro Observation Room (8 minute-walk from JR Mojiko Station) is located on the top 31st floor of Mojiko Retro Hi-Mart, a high-rise apartment building designed by Kisho Kurokawa, a leading Japanese architect. From a height of 103 meters, the view of the Kanmon Straits and Mojiko Retro townscape is spectacular. The night view is very popular as a date spot for lovers. Business hours: 10:00-22:00 (last admission at 21:30)

The Mojiko Retro Kanko Line of the Heisei Chikuho Railway is a sightseeing trolley train that runs from the Kyushu Railway History Museum adjacent to JR Mojiko Station, through the downtown Mojiko Retro District, under Kanmon Bridge, and to Mekari Park. It is nicknamed “Shiokaze-go.” It is recommended for those who wish to visit Mekari Shrine, walk inside the Kanmon Tunnel, or see the Kanmon Bridge up close. The total length of the line is 2.1 km, there are four stations: Kyushu Tetsudo Kinenkan Station, Idemitsu Bijutsukan Station, Norfolk Hiroba Station, and Kanmonkaikyo Mekari Station. Regular service runs on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays (all year round, excluding year-end and New Year holidays), and during the spring and summer vacation seasons. Between Kyushu Tetsudo Kinenkan Station and Kanmonkaikyo Mekari Station, the train takes 10 minutes to board and 10 minutes to wait for a turnaround, making 11 round trips per day at 40-minute intervals from 10 to 17. On some days, the train operates at night until 21 (6 round trips).

Under the naming rights system, the Mojiko Retro Kanko Line is nicknamed the Kitakyushu Bank Retro Train.

Mekari Park is located at the northernmost tip of Kyushu and the western edge of Setonaikai National Park, it is an urban park developed in the area of Mt. Kojo, where the ruins of Moji Castle are located. The total area of the park is 37.1 ha. The vast park includes a waterfront area where visitors can enjoy a close-up view of the Kanmon Straits, Kanmon Bridge, and passing ships. And the No.2 Observation Deck, from which you can see the entire Kanmon Straits and Kanmon Bridge, offers a panoramic view from Mojiko to Shimonoseki. It’s not only popular during the day, but the night view of the illuminated Kanmon Bridge and city lights is gaining popularity. Details are explained in the “Mekari Park” section. Access to No.2 Observation Deck is a 15-minute walk from Norfolk Hiroba Station on the Mojiko Retro Kanko Line, or Nishitetsu Bus (bound for Mekari) from JR Mojiko Station to Mekari Koen-mae Bus Stop. 15 minute-walk.

Mekari Shrine is located at the western end of Mekari Park. It is said that it was founded by Empress Jingu in 200 AD after her Sankan Seibatsu (conquest of the Three Korean Kingdoms). It is famous for the “Mekari Shinto ritual,” which is held every year before dawn on New Year’s Day according to the lunar calendar. Details are explained in the “Mekari Shrine” section. Access to Mekari Shrine is 8 minut-walk from Kanmon Kaikyo Mekari Station on the Mojiko Retro Kanko Line, or Nishitetsu Bus (bound for Mekari) from JR Mojiko Station to Mekari Jinja-mae Bus Stop, a short walk.

Adjacent to the Mekari Shrine is the entrance to the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel (Moji side). The Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel is a sightseeing spot where you can walk across the bottom of the Kanmon Straits, and in about 15 minutes you will reach “Mimosusogawa Park” (the site of the ancient battlefield of Dannoura), one of Shimonoseki’s most popular tourist attractions. Details are explained in the “Kanmon Tunnel” section.

“Yaki Curry” is a local delicacy representative of the Mojiko Retro District. It was first introduced as a menu item after a Japanese restaurant on Sakae-machi Ginten-gai Shopping Arcade in the Showa 30s (1955-1964), when a Makanai dish of leftover curry baked in an oven in an earthenware pot in the style of doria was so popular. (Makanai dish is food that is prepared for the employees of a restaurant rather than being served to customers)

Yaki curry is rice topped with curry, cheese, and an egg and baked in the oven, but the taste, appearance, and ingredients vary from restaurant to restaurant. Some restaurants add toppings such as puffer fish, octopus, and other seafood, allowing customers to enjoy a wide variety of flavors at each restaurant.

Today, Yaki curry is served at a variety of restaurants, including specialty stores, cafes, and restaurants in the Mojiko Retro District.

Access to Mojiko 

It takes about 1 hour 50 minutes from Haneda Airport (Tokyo) to Kitakyushu Airport. It takes about 35 minutes by Nishitetsu bus from Kitakyushu Airport to JR Kokura Station.

It takes about 2 hours 20 minutes by Shinkansen from JR Shin-Osaka Station to JR Kokura Station.

It takes about 15 minutes by Kagoshima Main Line (to Mojiko Station) from JR Kokura Station to JR Mojiko Station. Get off at JR Mojiko Station, a short walk.